A New Voyage to Carolina,
by John Lawson
A
JOURNAL of A thousand Miles Travel among the Indians,
from South to North Carolina.
{Saturday.} On
December the 28th, 1700, I began my Voyage (for North Carolina)
from Charles-Town, being six English-men in Company, with three
Indian-men, and one Woman, Wife to our Indian-Guide, having five
Miles from the Town to the Breach we went down in a large Canoe,
that we had provided for our Voyage thither, having the Tide of
Ebb along with us; which was so far spent by that Time we got
down, that we had not Water enough for our Craft to go over,
although we drew but two Foot, or thereabouts. This Breach is a
Passage through a Marsh lying to the Northward of Sullivans
Island, the Pilot's having a Look out thereon, lying very
commodious for Mariners, (on that Coast) making a good Land-Mark
in so level a Country, this Bar being difficult to hit, where an
Observation hath been wanting for a Day or two; North East Winds
bringing great Fogs, Mists, and Rains; which, towards the cool
Months of October, November, and until the latter End of March,
often appear in these Parts. There are three Pilots to attend,
and conduct Ships over the Bar. The Harbour where the Vessels
generally ride, is against the Town on Cooper's River, lying
within a Point which parts that and Ashley-River, they being
Land lock'd almost on all Sides.
At 4 in the Afternoon, (at
half Flood) we pass'd with our Canoe over the Breach, leaving
Sullivans Island on our Starboard. The first Place we design'd
for, was Santee River, on which there is a Colony of French
Protestants, allow'd and encourag'd by the Lords Proprietors. At
Night we got to Bell's-Island, a poor Spot of Land, being about
ten Miles round, where liv'd (at that Time) a Bermudian, being
employ'd here with a Boy, to look after a Stock of Cattle and
Hogs, by the Owner of this Island. One Side of the Roof of his
House was thatch'd with Palmeto-leaves, the other open to the
Heavens, thousands of Musketoes, and other troublesome Insects,
tormenting both Man and Beast inhabiting these Islands. {Palmeto-trees.}
The Palmeto-trees, whose Leaves growing only on the Top of the
Tree, in the Shape of a Fan, and in a Cluster, like a Cabbage;
this Tree in Carolina, when at its utmost Growth, is about forty
or fifty Foot in Height, and two Foot through: It's worth
mentioning, that the Growth of the Tree is not perceivable in
the Age of any Man, the Experiment having been often try'd in
Bermudas, and elsewhere, which shews the slow Growth of this
Vegitable, the Wood of it being porous and stringy, like some
Canes; the Leaves thereof the Bermudians make Womens Hats,
Bokeets, Baskets, and pretty Dressing-boxes, a great deal being
transported to Pensilvania, and other Northern Parts of America,
(where they do not grow) for the same Manufacture. The People of
Carolina make of the Fans of this Tree, Brooms very serviceable,
to sweep their Houses withal.
We took up our Lodging
this Night with the Bermudian; our Entertainment was very
indifferent, there being no fresh Water to be had on the Island.
The next Morning we set
away thro' the Marshes; about Noon we reach'd another Island,
call'd Dix's Island, much like to the former, tho' larger; there
liv'd an honest Scot, who gave us the best Reception his
Dwelling afforded, being well provided of Oat-meal, and several
other Effects he had found on that Coast; which Goods belong'd
to that unfortunate Vessel, the Rising Sun, a Scotch Man of War,
lately arriv'd from the Istmus of Darien, and cast away near the
Bar of Ashley River, the September before, Capt. Gibson of
Glasco then commanding her, who, with above an hundred Men then
on Board her, {Septem. 5. 1700.} were every Soul drown'd in that
terrible Gust which then happen'd; most of the Corps being taken
up, were carefully interr'd by Mr. Graham, their Lieutenant, who
happily was on Shore during the Tempest.
After Dinner, we left our
Scotch Landlord, and went that Night to the North East Point of
the Island: It being dark ere we got there, our Canoe struck on
a Sand near the Breakers, and were in great Danger of our Lives,
but (by God's Blessing) got off safe to the Shore, where we lay
all Night.
{Monday.} In the
Morning we set forwards on our intended Voyage. About two a
Clock we got to Bulls Island, which is about thirty Miles long,
and hath a great Number of both Cattel and Hogs upon it; the
Cattel being very wild, and the Hogs very lean. These two last
Islands belong to one Colonel Cary, an Inhabitant of South
Carolina. Although it were Winter, yet we found such Swarms of
Musketoes, and other troblesome Insects, that we got but little
Rest that Night.
{Tuesday.} The next
Day we intended for a small Island on the other Side of Sewee-Bay,
which joining to these Islands, Shipping might come to victual
or careen; but there being such a Burden of those Flies, that
few or none cares to settle there; so the Stock thereon are run
wild. We were gotten about half Way to Racoon-Island, when there
sprung up a tart Gale at N.W. which put us in some Danger of
being cast away, the Bay being rough, and there running great
Seas between the two Islands, which are better than four Leagues
asunder, a strong Current of a Tide setting in and out, which
made us turn Tail to it, and got our Canoe right before the
Wind, and came safe into a Creek that is joining to the North
End of Bulls Island. We sent our Indians to hunt, who brought us
two Deers, which were very poor, and their Maws full of large
Grubs.
{Wednesday.} On the
Morrow we went and visited the Eastermost Side of this Island,
it joining to the Ocean, having very fair sandy Beeches, pav'd
with innumerable Sorts of curious pretty Shells, very pleasant
to the Eye. Amongst the rest, we found the Spanish Oyster-Shell,
whence come the Pearls. They are very large, and of a different
Form from other Oysters; their Colour much resembles the
Tortoise-Shell, when it is dress'd. There was left by the Tide
several strange Species of a muciligmous slimy Substance, though
living, and very aptly mov'd at their first Appearance; yet,
being left on the dry Sand, (by the Beams of the Sun) soon
exhale and vanish.
At our Return to our
Quarters, the Indians had kill'd two more Deer, two wild Hogs,
and three Racoons, all very lean, except the Racoons. We had
great Store of Oysters, Conks, and Clanns, a large Sort of
Cockles. These Parts being very well furnish'd with Shell-Fish,
Turtle of several Sorts, but few or none of the green, with
other Sorts of Salt-water Fish, and in the Season, good Plenty
of Fowl, as Curleus, Gulls, Gannets, and Pellicans, besides Duck
and Mallard, Geese, Swans, Teal, Widgeon, &c.
{Thursday.} On
Thursday Morning we left Bulls Island, and went thro' the
Creeks, which lie between the Bay and the main Land. At Noon we
went on Shore, and got our Dinner near a Plantation, on a Creek
having the full Prospect of Sewee-Bay: We sent up to the House,
but found none at Home, but a Negro, of whom our Messenger
purchas'd some small Quantity of Tobacco and Rice. We came to a
deserted Indian Residence, call'd Avendaugh-bough, where we
rested that Night.
{Friday.} The next
Day we enter'd Santee-River's Mouth, where is fresh Water,
occasion'd by the extraordinary Current that comes down
continually. With hard Rowing, we got two Leagues up the River,
lying all Night in a swampy Piece of Ground, the Weather being
so cold all that Time, we were almost frozen ere Morning,
leaving the Impressions of our Bodies on the wet Ground. We set
forward very early in the Morning, to seek some better Quarters.
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